Circular knitting machine



Oct.- 23, 1956 J. JENARD ET AL 2,767,567

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Original Filed July 1, 1950 3 Sheets-Sheet INVENTORS Oscar jrggealle Zea/mm J BY fer Kara 40% M kw ATTORNEYS 1956 J. JENARD ET AL 2,767,567

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE 3 Shets-Sheei 2 Original Filed July 1 1950 INVENTORS 03 CAR FREGEOLLE LEONARD JJENARD ATTORNEYS Oct. 23, 1956 1.. J. JENARD ET AL 2,767,567

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Original Filed July 1, 1950 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 IF f '1 I l g ggiggfggwailifl IVNVENTQRS 031m i'rzakn/Ze y [Wm/1i mama United States Patent Office 2,7 67,567 CIRCULAR IQIE'ETENG MACHINE Leonard J. Jenard, Pawtuclret, and Oscar Fregeolle, Central Falls, R. 1., assiguors to Harcourt Knitting Company, Pawtuciret, R. I., a corporation of Rhode Island Original application July 1, 1956, Serial No. 171,708, now Patent No. 2,721,464, dated October 251, 1955 Divided and this application February 4, 1958, Serial No. 343,932

12 Claims. (Cl. 66-132) By means of the conventional machines as now existing. However, with such machine, it is feasible to produce an elastic or surgical stocking embracing nylon or similar thread.

The stocking so produced will have a pleasing and sheer appearance and will therefore not require the use of a covering stocking. Moreover, a unit embodying this structure will be free from objections to bunching and wrinkling and be relatively inexpensive and have a full fashioned appearance. Additionally, the stocking will exert a substantially even tension throughout its entire effective length so that the limb portions will be evenly supported; the stocking being worn with complete comfort.

A further object is that of providing a machine or an accessory attachment for such a machine, the assembly embracing for the most part the structure of conventional machines as now existing on the market.

Still another object is that of providing a mechanism which will be of simple and rugged design and capable of production at a relatively low figure aside from the fact that it will operate over long periods of time with freedom from all difficulties.

With these and other objects in mind, reference is had to the attached sheets of drawings illustrating practical embodiments of the invention, and in which:

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary perspective view of a grouping of apparatus providing an accessory assembly or attachment for a knitting machine which may otherwise embrace more or less conventional structure;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary front view of such a machine and assembly;

Fig. 3 is a side view thereof;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary enlarged side view of a portion of the assembly as especially shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a somewhat diagrammatic representation of the stocking which is produced; and

Figs. 6 and 7 are greatly enlarged fragmentary views of portions of the stocking body.

In Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive the apparatus has been illustrated as incorporating an attachment or accessory assembly to be operatively connected to a more or less standard type of knitting machine such as may be purchased on the open market. In many respects it is preferred that the present teachings be thus employed in that with only minimum expense and minor modifications of the knitting machine the apparatus will function in an eminently satisfactory manner. However, it

2,767,567 Patented Oct. 23, 1956 will be understood that in lieu of incorporating the machine parts in an assembly largely provided as an attachment to a standard machine, that machine itself could be modified to incorporate the desired structure.

' primarily to Figs. 1, 2 and 3 it will be support 11 extends upwardly. Suitably secured upon this support is a head 12 mounting a platform 13 at the end of a bracket portion 14. Rotatively disposed between the arms of such bracket portion is a shaft 15 which may be driven by a pulley 16. Also secured to shaft 15 are thread-feeding However, should the movement of the thread be interrupted while rotation of the wheel is continuing, then the thread will ride Without damage to the latter.

A support 19 extends downwardly from the machine head. Conveniently a mounting is provided at 20'. This supports a member 20 which may extend in a substantially horizontal direction. Mounted upon this supporting surface is a fixed plate 21 with the operating edge of which a plate 22 cooperates by being pivotally mounted as at 23 upon a support 24 afiixed to the platform 20. Plate 22 may form a part of or have attached to it an arm 25. The latter is conveniently provided with an offset end portion 26. Also secured to plate 22 or forming a part of the same is an arm 28 which moves with that plate. A spring 27 has one of its ends attached to this arm 28 and its'opposite end is secured to the platform or support 20. Therefore, plate 22 is normally urged to a position such as has been shown in full lines in Fig. 4.

A yarn take-up lever in the form of a wire 29 and relatively heavy rear on, the upper face of platform 20 and provided with a pair of openings 35 acting as thread guides. Platform 20 is also formed with openings 36 to 39 inclusive adjacent its outer end and serving similar functions as will hereinafter appear.

The machine proper includes a suitable drive such as has been indicated at 40.. By means of this drive the cam drum 41 is caused to rotate. Also the several other operating parts of the. machine are caused to function in usual and accepted manners. Rotated by drive 41) is a shaft 42. Secured to rotate with this shaft is a pulley 43 of the Reeves type. A spring (not shown) normally maintains the parts of this pulley in a position where a maximum diameter of the latter is assured in the drive of a cable or other connecting device 44. That cable extends around pulley 16 of shaft 15. A control in the nature of a bell crank lever 45 bears against the hub assembly 46 of pulley 43. A follower 47 bears against bell crank lever 45. When this follower is prowheels 17 and 18. The lat-- a part of the drum assembly 41 operating cam 48 forms and is disposed in a position where it cooperates with follower 47.

In order to control the operation of lever 29 by tensioning and releasing the cord or connector 32 a cam 49 is conveniently coupled to drum 41. This cam cooper ates with the follower portion 50 of a lever 51 pivotally supported as at 52 by the frame of the machine. The lower end of the connecting member or cord 32 is attached to the outer end of lever 51. It is therefore obvious that when cam 49 rotates to engage and shift follower portion 50, lever 51 will rock to exert a pull on cord 32 to elevate the end or arm of lever 29 which carries the eyelet 33. It is apparent in this connection that under certain circumstances it might be unnecessary to include a spring 31 in the coupling assembly. For exann plc the cord 32 might be elastic or the parts might be proportioned and arranged so that this tensioning provision is unnecessary. However ordinarily some yielding should be incorporated in the connection.

As the forward arm of lever 29 rises it will permit of a similar movement on the part of arm 25. This will be because the offset end portion 26 of the latter arm engages the underface of lever arm 29 and is urged into such engagement by spring 27. Accordingly, as arm 25 rises, plate 22 will be swung to the position shown in full lines in Fig. 4 and in which it cooperates with plate 21 to prevent the passage or feed of a yarn disposed in operative position with respect to these plates.

Additional yarn locking devices are mounted upon the support or platform 13. These conveniently include fixed plates 53 with which plates 54 cooperate to provide a yarn-clamping structure. Plates 54 are secured to or form part of arms 55 pivotally mounted as at 56. Springs 57 cooperate with arms 55 to normally raise the latter and thus bring the plates 54 into cooperative relationship with plates 53. Under these circumstances a movement of yarn through these assemblies is prevented. To the rear of plates 53 and 54 platform 13 may be provided with eyelets 58 for the passage of yarn.

Connecting elements such as wires or cords 59 and 59 may extend from the ends of arms 55 opposite those supporting plates 54 in a downward direction. At their lower ends these connecting elements are coupled to cam levers 6t) and 61 as shown especially in Figs. 2 and 3. These levers are caused to function by cooperation with cam portions forming a part of the drum assembly 41. As afore brought out springs 57 normally tend to shift arms 55 to positions at which a clamping or arresting action of plates 53 and 54 occur. However when levers 60 and 61 move downwardly they will carry with them the lower ends of connectors 59 and 59'. Therefore the outer ends of arms 55 will be swung downwardly against the action of springs 57 to freely permit of the passage of yarn past the plates 53 and 54.

From the foregoing it will be understood a circular type knitting machine has been generally shown and that the apparatus providing for the functions herein desired is in the nature of attachments or accessory assemblies to be associated with such a machine. Obviously, and as afore brought out, the several mechanical parts necessary to produce the desired functions herein contemplated could be incorporated as part of the machine and that machine could be of a type different than herein shown. In order to avoid unnecessary and confusing illustration, various conventional parts such as the cylinder,fsinkers, needles, etc. which form a part of the machine have not been illus trated. However, the yarn levers have been generally indicated in Fig. 1 under the reference numeral 62.

A stocking constructed in accordance with the present teachings has been somewhat schematically shown in Fig. 5. That stocking will include a welt portion 63, a thigh and calf encircling portions 64 and ankle portion 65, a foot portion 66, a ring-toe portion 67, a toe portion 68 and a heel portion 69. The portions 64, 65, 66 and 69 will be formed of elastic yarn the core of which will be colored to embody a tint corresponding to that of the finished stocking. The yarn will be composed approximately of 58% nylon and 42% core with an elongation of, for example, between and This will assure sufficient width and strength being incorporated in the fabric without having the resultant unit embodying too much bulk. The welt portion 63, the ring-toe poi= tion 67 and toe portion 68 are conveniently formed of nylon thread, cotton thread, or a mixture of cotton and nylon with the nylon thread outside of the cotton. It is especially preferred that the welt portion be formed of such a mixture.

Returning to a consideration of Figs. l to 4, the numerals 70 and 70 indicate the elastic yarns as aforedescribed which pass through the arresting or locking structures provided by plates 53 and 54 and thence through the eyelets 53 over the feed wheels 17 and 18. Thereafter, yarn 70 passes directly through opening 35 of plate 34 and so through opening 36 to its yarn lever 62.. Yarn 70 passes from its feed wheel through a guide, then over plate 21., through the openings of plate 22 and eyelet 33 to its yarn lever or feeder. The yarns are fed from bobbins or spools, providing a source of supply. The inelastic yarns have been indicated at 71. They pass through eyes 37 and 39 of the support or plate 20; the yarn 70 incorporating elastic properties which passes through the eye 33 extending throughthe opening 38. The mechanism for feeding and controlling the inelastic yarns has not been shown. Suffice to say it may embody any desired and acceptable construction.

Two elastic yarns are used. This is because of the desirability of having a heel formed of a yarn more resistant to abrasion than the yarn providing the leg and foot portions. Conveniently the leg yarn 70 is composed of a 100 core covered with two ends of 40 denier nylon yarn. The heel yarn 70 may also be composed of a 100 core but covered with two ends of 70 denier nylon yarn. Difierent non-elastic yarns are preferably employed. In this connection it will be understood that the yarn providing the welt portion of the stocking should not be too heavy but at the same time should embody a certain amount of stretch. Conversely thenon-elastic yarn providing the toe should have a high abrasion value and be relatively inelastic.

Before considering the operation of the apparatus as aforedescribed it will be noted that as in Fig. 3 cam 48 has been shown as including portions C to G inclusive. Likewise as in Fig. 5 various zones of the stocking have been identified by similar reference letters, Thus, in the latter view, A indicates the end edge or zone of the welt portion 63. B indicates generally the zone of termination of the inelastic yarn with which zone a flare is favored. From B to C a portion of generally constant width is present. From C to D the stocking is tapered to provide a calf portion. From D to B an ankle portion of substantially constant width is provided and at F the heel portion is present.

With the machine set up as shown and the yarn in position it will be understood that elastic threads70 and 70 will not be fed. This will be because the cams on drum 41 have raised levers 60 and 61. Therefore the connectors 59 and 59' will have permitted arms 55 to elevat under the influence of springs 57 to clamp the elastic yarns against movement. In the interim, however, inelastic yarn strands 71 will continue to feed and operate to form loop portions providing the desired welt 63. Upon reaching zone B both the elastic and inelastic yarns will be fed to assure a zone of overlap and connection between these parts of the stocking. At this moment mechanisms which control a feeding of the inelastic yarn 71 will function to interrupt further feed of the latter.

Up to zone C cam 48 will not cooperate with follower 47 to reduce the drive effected by the pulley 43. Therefore, a maximum operative diameter of the latter will be presented. Accordingly, shaft 15 and feed wheels 17 and 18 will rotate at maximum speed. With the initiation of this operation levers 60 and 61 will have lowered to exert tension on connecting elements 59 and 59'. Therefore, plates 54 will have swung out of operative association with plates 53. Accordingly a free feeding of elastic yarn strand 70 may occur. With feed wheels 17 and 18 rotating at maximum speed, the loops of thread forming the courses of the stocking will have their greatest widthwise and lengthwise dimensions. Such a result has been shown in Fig. 6. This will continue from Zone B to zone C. Therefore, throughout this portion of the stocking, each course of knitting embraces a maximum yarn length.

As particularly shown in Fig. 3, cam 48 presents a tapered surface of gradually increasing width which continues through to point D. As a consequence of this portion, follower 47 is gradually shifted to cooperate with the hub assembly 46 of pulley 43 to decrease the effective drive diameter of the latter. Therefore shaft 15 will be gradually rotated at slower speeds which will also be true of the yarns transmitted by feed wheels 17 and 18. Accordingly, the stocking will be narrowed down as has been indicated between C and D in Fig. 5. At point D and from that point through to E the rate at which the yarn is delivered to th needles is relatively quite slow. Therefore a minimum width is incorporated in the ankle portion of the stocking. In this connection and returning to Fig. 3, it will be observed that cam 48 is of uniform height between these points D and G.

Continued rotation of cam drum 41 causes the heel spring cam 49 to cooperate with the rear portion 50 of lever 51 thereby swinging the latter around its pivot and exerting tension upon the connecting element 32. This will cause the outer end of lever arm 29 to be moved downwardly thereby raising eyelet 33 and permitting arm 25 under the influence of spring 27 to elevate. Under these circumstances plates 21 and 22 will cooperate to arrest further movement of elastic yarn 70. Simultaneously levers 6t and 61 are shifted. This will cause the tension on connecting wires or cables 59 and 59' to be released. Therefore plates 53 and 54 will move into thread-engaging relationship.

As afore brought out yarn 70' is the thread which forms the leg and foot portions of the stocking. It is fed directly from the feed wheel through eyes 35 and 36 and the yarn feeder 62 with which it is associated. When moving this yarn shifts under a straight away motion. Under these circumstances yarn 70 is locked by its clamping plates 53 and 54; such yarn being used only during reciprocatory knitting. Plates 53 and 54 cooper ate to lock the yarn only if lever 62 is inoperative. Therefore, there will be no tendency of the yarn to feed after the plates have shifted to locked position. As will be understood the connecting element 59' controls the shifting of the plates.

At this point the unit which functions to supply yarns back and forth over less than the full bank of needles is brought into operation. During reciprocation in one direction the yarn is under tension. During the reverse movement there is a considerable amount of slack in the yarn which must be taken up. In a machine which is working on inelastic yarn the take-up of slack is accomplished by suitable tension devices. However, these devices cannot be used with elastic yarn because that yarn cannot be controlled by variations in tension. It is for this reason that in the present machine the locking plates 21 and 22 are provided. During the forward movement of the unit the yarn is being drawn to the needles and is under a sufiicient tension to flex the wire arm of lever 29 downwardly. This flexion will result in a suflicient strain being exerted to cause a part'al swinging of the lever around pivot 30. Consequently arm 25 will be deplate 22 out of clamping relationship necessary to achieve the desired tension. The tension exerted by spring 31 is so light that the yarn need be tensioned to only a slight degree over its normal condition to cause a movement of plate 22. During reverse movement of lever 29 a considerable amount of slack will occur. Accordingly, spring 31 will swing lever 29 so that eyelet 33 assumes its uppermost position. This will take up the slack in a bight of yarn extending from the eyelet 35 of plate 34 to the take-up eye 33.

Under the circumstances thus described, it will be seen that the yarn necessary for the reverse movement of the lever is supplied from the slack in the bight referred to, i. e. from the slack generated by the reciprocating action itself. There being no feed of yarn at that time from the feed wheel 17 such yarn as is needed for the operation is supplied from the slack at a substantially constant tension. If the amount of slack is not sufiicient to supply the amount necessary on any reverse movement of the reciprocator, the increase of tension when the slack is exhausted immediately pulls the eye 33 and lever 29 down. This results in an unlocking of plates 21 and 22. As soon as the yarn is released, the tension on the yarn causes it to be operatively engaged and shifted by the Wheel 17 so that the feeding operation is resumed. this manner a heel portion 69 is provided. Such portion will incorporate an amount of material in excess or" that required to fill in the area of the heel portion. This excess is evidenced by the heel part of the stocking bulging to a slight extent when that stocking is not applied to the foot of the wearer. When so applied the heel portion is stretched and serves as an elastic constricting surface which will draw all adjacent parts of the stocking into firm contact with the foot, instep and ankle surfaces. At the completion of the heel forming operation the As in Fig. 3 this portion of cam 48 is repzone extending from parts F to G. Under most reduced diameter.

As the machine functions to initially form the heel the with the needles, the clamps controlling the locking of the feeding of yarn 70 function. The motion of lever 60 is adequate to provide for this result. Under these circumstances lever 61 is shifted and the yarn lever 62 controlling yarn 7% moves into feeding position. It follows that the clamping elements 53 and 54 cooperating with that yarn are out of engagement. As will be understood levers 6t} and yarn levers but also feeding of yarn 74 and 7%.

Characteristic of the loops forming the courses throughout, for example, the ankle and foot portions of in that figure in comparison with Fig. 5 the same number of loops have been included in each course. However, the overall height and width of the resultant sections is appreciably different. This, of course, is attributable to the fact that the amount of yarn in each course as represented in Fig. 7 is substantially less than that present in each course of the fabric as illustrated in Fig. 6.

At the point indicated by the letter H in Fig 5, the knitting of the elastic yarn is stopped. This occurs incident to the fact that lever 60 moves upwardly at this moment. Therefore the arm 55 cooperating with yarn 70 may swing upwardly and interrupt further feeding of that yarn. At this moment lever 6t)rnoves upwardly, lever 61 having moved upwardly at the termination of the heel zone. Due to the heavier yarn employed throughout this zone, the excess heel material results which provides the bulge portion as aforedescribed despite the fact that the loops throughout the heel portion are relatively tight in comparison with, the loops throughout the remainder of the sheath. The unit being formed on a circular knitting machine, it is of course apparent that in effect the same number of loops will be present in any given course throughout the heel and the adjacent interrupted courses of the sheath as exist throughout the remaining courses of the latter. Inelastic yarn 71 now is fed towards the needles and the latter operates in conventional fashion to produce the toe portion 68 and the adjacent ring-toe portion 67.

It will be appreciated that by means of the present invention a stocking embodying an exceptional degree of fashioning may be produced by employing nylon covered elastic yarn. A stocking made of such yarn has an appearance comparable to that of a conventional nylon stocking. Furthermore, the fashioning is such as to produce a substantially uniform pressure on all parts of the wearers leg. Due to the provision of the elastic heel portion not alone is it possible to provide a stocking having a pleasing appearance but also the adjacent portions of the stocking are maintained in firm, proper contact with the adjacent surfaces of the foot and ankle.

Thus, among others, the several objects of the invention as specifically aforenoted are achieved. Obviously numerous changes in construction and rearrangement of the parts as well as the steps of the method might be resorted to without departing from the spirit of the invention as defined by the claims.

We claim:

1. A machine of the class described including in combination a yarn feeding wheel, means for driving said wheel at different speeds, a yarn clamp in advance of said wheel, a second yarn clamp to the rear of said wheel and means controlled by the tension of said yarn for causing the operation of said second yarn clamp.

2. A stocking knitting machine including a earn assembly, a rotary yarn feeding and gripping wheel, means connected to said wheel and controlled by said assembly for varying the speed of rotation of said wheel, a yarn clamp beyond said wheel and means also controlled by said assembly for causing a functioning of said clamp.

3. A stocking knitting machine including a cam assembly, a yarn feeding wheel, means forming a part of said assembly for controlling he speed of movement of said wheel, a yarn clamp beyond said wheel, a yarn clamp arranged in advance of said wheel and means controlled by said assembly for causing a functioning of said clamps.

4. In a machine for knitting elastic stockings a yarn clamp including a pair of plates mounted for swinging movements with respect to each other, a lever secured to one of said plates, a second lever disposed to cooperate with said first named lever to shift the first lever and the plate secured thereto and a yarn receiving guide carried by said second lever to cause according to the tension on the yarn a swinging of the same.

5 In a circular knitting machine, apparatus for knitting fashioned stockings with elastic yarn, comprising a rotary feed. wheel to grip and feed the yarn, and means for automatically changing the speed of the wheel to vary the. amount of yarn fed for the several courses, thereby to correlate the feed of the yarn with variation in the loop length in different portions of the stockings.

6. In a circular knitting machine, apparatus for knitting fashioned stockings with elastic yarn, comprising a rotary feed wheel to grip and feed the yarn, a variable speed drive for the wheel to vary the amount of yarn fed for the several courses, and cam controlled means for the variable speed drive to vary the loop length, in different portionsof the stocking.

7. in a circular knitting machine, having a needle cylinder for knitting fashioned stockings with elastic yarn, comprising a rotary feed wheel to grip and feed the yarn, the cylinder receiving said yarn, means for automatically changing the speed of the wheel to vary amount of yarn fed for the several courses, thereby effecting variations in the loop length in different portions of the stocking, and yarn locking means between the wheel and cylinder to render the Wheel ineffective for feeding yarn.

8. In a circular knitting machine, having a needle cylinder for knitting fashioned stockings with elastic yarn, comprising a rotary feed wheel having spring fingers to grip the yarn, pattern means for varying the speed of the wheel to vary the loop length in different portions of the stocking, the cylinder receiving the yarn and yarnlocking means between the wheel and the cylinder and operative to prevent the wheel, while rotating, from cffectively gripping the yarn.

9. In a circular knitting machine in combination a yarn-gripping wheel, a controlling cam assembly, means,

operated bythelatter and governing the speed of rotation of said wheel, a yarn clamp including relatively mov able parts to grip between them a yarn fed from said wheel, a rockingly mounted lever having flexible characteristics, a guide carried by said lever to receive the yarn after its passage through said clamp, means connecting said lever with said clamp whereby the latter is operated by theposition of the former and means also controlled by said cam assembly for shifting said lever.

10. in a circular knitting machine having a needle cylinder, feeding wheel means for feeding elastic yarn, variable speed driving means operatively connected to said wheel, a movable cam assembly forming a part of said machine, arresting means engaging said yarn and also forming a part of said machine, means connecting said arresting and driving means with said cam assembly whereby both of the former are controlled by such assembly, said wheel means feeding yarn to the needle cylinder at a maximum and substantially constant speed to cause the production of a leg-encircling stocking sheath portion of corresponding diameter, said cam assembly operating subsequently to adjust said driving means to cause a reduction in the speed of said feeding wheel means and a corresponding diminution in the stocking sheath dianr eter to provide an ankle-encircling portion, said cam assembly thereupon causing an operation of said arresting means to modify the feeding of the yarn to the needle cylinder and to thereby provide a heel portion having material characteristics different from the remainder thereof, said cam assembly under continued operation controlling said arresting means and the feed wheel means continuing the feeding of yarn to the needle cylinder to cause the production of a stocking foot portion contiguous with said heel and ankle portions.

ll. in a knitting machine as specified in claim it), said cam assembly operating said arresting means to interrupt elastic yarn feeding to terminate said foot portion at a certain zone, and means operatively connecting said cam means to control the movement of an inelastic yarn to thereupon cause the latter to feed to said needle cylinder and the latter to produce a substantially inelastic toe portion defining the end of said foot portion. 12. In a knitting machine as specified in claim 10, said feeding wheel means feeding an elastic heel yarn having characteristics different from said ankle portion yarn and also operated by said variable speed driving means, said reel yarn providing said heel portion, and means controlling the feeding of said elastic heel yarn whereby said heel portion embodies an excess of material such that parts of said heel bulge outwardly with respect to the stocking body.

(References. on following page) 9 References Cited the file of this patent UNITED PATENTS Zens May 11, 1915 Jones et al? Sept. 3, 1929 Sheppard Q. July 20, 1937 Lawson et "a1 Nov. 8, 1938 

